Miami, Key West and Tampa-style Cuban sandwiches from Mi Apá Latin Café in Gainesville. Picture courtesy of Mi Apá.
A Cuban sandwich underneath refrigeration in a comfort retailer in Welaka stunned me. Cuban fishermen from Miami have made it this far north, I believed. That’s how this sandwich received right here, it’s the fishermen who need it. I picked a bottle of water and closed the door.
An indication of Cuban tradition in a small city alongside the japanese financial institution of the St. Johns River – excellent news. Recognizing the Cubano was extra superior than after I first noticed sandhill cranes, these large elegant birds who dwell inland. The Welaka sandwich elevated a way of private safety. Folks wouldn’t suppose me so odd – a middle-aged Cuban girl poking round alone.
Now there was proof the residents would welcome me as they’d the sandwich. I had a lot to find out about individuals and place.
The St. Johns River’s birthplace is additional south, in Sanford. There, Robb’s Bakery, established in 1940 by Fred and Evarae Robb, made Cuban bread. Their three daughters seemed ahead to turning 11 so they may assist on the bakery. In 1950, the close by Naval Air Station was energetic due to the Korean Battle and the Chilly Battle. Judy Robb remembers that pilots would name her father and place an order for 30 to 50 loaves of Cuban bread, which offered for 25 cents a loaf. The pilots would take them to Cuba. “They stated we made higher Cuban bread than the Cubans did,” Robb stated.
*A standard Cubana from Mi Apá Latin Café. Picture courtesy of Mi Apá.
Good bread with a crust is vital to excellence within the Cuban sandwich, particularly as a result of it’s pressed. Not too long ago, I had a topnotch one at Mi Apá Latin Café in Gainesville. A younger man behind the counter addressed me in English, which saddened me just a little. The café’s environment was a bit like one in Miami. I ordered in Spanish. As soon as I received within the automobile and took a chunk, I used to be again in Miami. It was good!
Mi Apá buys bread from La Segunda, a Tampa bakery established in 1915. I had the normal Cuban sandwich ($8.69) however clients also can go for an Ybor Metropolis Tampa Cuban ($9.29) or the Key West Cuban ($9.89). I gained’t be a part of the talk in regards to the location of the sandwich’s origin, which then defines its compilation of elements. Tampa, Miami, Key West and Havana declare the Cubano, rightfully so. These locations have lengthy been residence to Cubans.
The normal Cuban sandwich assembled and pressed in Miami has the next: Cuban bread, roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, mustard and pickles. That is the one which brings me residence. When you had been raised in Tampa, you’d be used to salami in there as nicely. When you’re from Key West, the Cuban sandwich is just like the Miami however with further tomato, lettuce and mayo. In different phrases, geography and historical past play roles within the improvement of meals and foodways. Nonetheless, individuals prefer to argue. Mi Apá is good to label and promote all three variations! And their Cuban sandwich is great, top-of-the-line round this a part of Florida.
Tampa, Key West and Miami all declare to be the birthplace of the Cuban sandwich. This photograph is from a Cuban sandwich store in Tampa’s Ybor Metropolis neighborhood in 1966. Picture courtesy of Florida Reminiscence.
Many times I’d drive to a small restaurant in Bunnell known as Cuban Sandwiches. Their Cubano is great. The family-owned breakfast, lunch and take-out place is welcoming and serves conventional meals – scorching meals included. Norma D’s in Hastings has a Havana Mama Cuban sandwich ($8.99) on its lunch menu. It’s the Tampa model, because it has salami. The Havana identify provides confusion. In any case, after I resolve to attempt it, I’ll attempt the Tampa model one at Norma D’s.
At an Earth Day celebration in Washington Oaks State Park this previous April 23, I noticed the Café Ybor Meals Bus. I used to be desperate to see their choices for just a little style journey to Cuba, Tampa-style. But it boasted a Miami Cuban that didn’t get it proper. I used to be bummed however didn’t go to the window to appropriate the house owners. Later, on April 30, I learn a press release on their web site: “The Miami has baked ham, roast pork, genoa salami, swiss cheese, shredded lettuce, tomato, Miami mayo, dill pickle chips. That is how they eat a Cuban in Miami. No judgement.” It appears to be like like they mixed all three variations into one, which in all probability tastes nice. But, it’s not the normal Cuban sandwich served in Miami.
Maybe their newfangled sandwich ought to be relabeled as Cuban-inspired. Odd Birds Café in St. Augustine has a Cuban-inspired breakfast sandwich with ham, bacon, two eggs over medium, swiss cheese and mayo, pressed on Cuban bread ($9.50). I thank them for the popularity and for taking it one step additional. I can’t wait to attempt it. An everyday Cuban sandwich ($11.50) is on their menu too.
Cuban sandwiches have been served in North Florida for a lot of many years. On this 1984 photograph, Bobby Ulloa of the Cuban Bakery in Jacksonville serves up his model. Picture courtesy of Florida Reminiscence.
The Moultrie Publix in St. Augustine carries Cuban-inspired pinwheels, 4 to a tray ($3.99). They’re product of roast pork, cheddar cheese, ham, lettuce, pickles and mustard in roasted purple pepper lavas. I admire the popularity of Cuba’s position in its conception however I’d not bear in mind Cuba or Miami if I eat these once more. My eyebrows rose in entrance of Walmart’s freezer part a couple of yr in the past after recognizing a bundle of Cuban Sandwich Egg Rolls made by Happi Foodi ($4.98). I purchased this product twice. They’re unusual in a means however I’ll purchase them once more. Recipes for selfmade ones will be discovered on-line. The Chinese language contributed to the fusion that’s conventional Cuban delicacies, so I used to be open to making an attempt them. Oddly, I’m not keen but to attempt the Tampa or Key West Cuban sandwich. My reasoning on this matter is defective.
Two newcomers to the Cuban meals scene in St. Johns County embody the Paladar Cuban Eatery in St. Augustine Seaside and the 1928 Cuban Bistro 2 additional north within the county. The Paladar Cuban Eatery has a standard Cuban sandwich ($13.75). The individual taking the order behind the counter requested if I needed mustard and pickles on it, which was disappointing, as they’re key to the normal sandwich.
The choice to go away these in or take them out contributes to a morphing of the normal sandwich. That is harmful given the North American impulse to improvise and enhance on issues. A working example is the merchandise on a menu in Alexandria, Virginia in the course of the early 2000s: Havana Nachos. Not Havana-inspired. A Cuban in Cuba wouldn’t know a nacho, as corn tortillas usually are not a part of our conventional delicacies. It’s a small factor but it surely contributes to the erosion of information surrounding custom and historical past. Conventional dishes mustn’t bend to the extremely individualized U.S. client. If a standard dish or merchandise is modified, the prepare dinner and their company ought to perceive they’re having fun with a modified model of the unique.
Carmen Castellanos, a Cuban pal who has lived in North Florida for a few years, recollects by accident seeing a Cuban sandwich on the lunch menu at a small restaurant on Nova Highway in Daytona in 2014. Initially skeptical, she was tremendous comfortable after the primary chunk. It was Miami! She requested the house owners about how they realized to make it so nicely. Apparently, a cargo of frozen Cuban bread got here day by day and so they took it from there. They had been as critical about serving a very good Cuban sandwich as I’m about consuming one.
Article by Marisella Veiga. Contact Marisella at mveiga@bellsouth.internet.